The road to Scotland: Inner Farnes for the Inner soul

We left The Marriott full of expectation and a full English. Our destination was the Inner Farne islands and all the seabird delight they hold. On the drive to Seahouses, I remembered back to the last time I tried to visit the Farnes and was thwarted by bad weather. Please God, not again. The weather was sunny but with a 'fresh' north-easterly breeze. I mean, what is a fresh breeze? Is it light, moderate or strong? 


On our arrival at Seahouses, we were immediately told by the National Trust rep that our landing fee might well be returned to us as the stiff breeze (damn, hadn’t thought of a stiff breeze) had induced a choppy sea and there had to be a caveat in case the boats couldn’t land at the jetty on the main island on the Inner Farnes. Please don’t do this to me God, I thought.

As we waited for the boat, we picked up a swallow, Eider and turnstone around the harbour and a couple of common scoter playing hide and seek behind the rolling waves.

Eider


Eventually we boarded what would become a roller-coaster and headed off to Inner Farne. The sea was choppy and the boat rolled from side to side making photographing gannets and passing auks somewhat difficult.

God came through.


Good news, we were able to land as the jetty was on the leeside and the waters were a bit calmer. Fulmer, Kittiwake and the NT wardens all welcomed us as we climbed the steps up to the old lighthouse. Shag, guillemots and squadrons of puffin criss-crossed the blue skies above us and the distinct stench of ammonia met our nostrils causing some discomfort that was quickly acquired and forgotten. 

Fulmar

Kittiwake

Puffin

Puffin

Puffin

Puffin

Shag

Fulmars cut across the island on stiff wings as Kittiwake screamed at each other to stake claims on miniature platforms of stone on which to build a nest. Puffins stood comically beside burrows as if expecting an inspection to their digs. All the while, shags carried seaweed and sticks to build their impending offspring a home.

In the lighthouse garden a couple of rock pipits were seen along with robin and blackbird. Our hour on Inner Farne was pretty much up and we headed back down the slippery jetty to await our ride back.

Sandwich Tern

The way back was pretty much the same as the outward sail but by now, we were used to it. The captain took us around different islands including Big Harcar, the one Grace Darling saved the shipwrecked party from the paddle steamer Forfarshire. we were also taken to some of the key colonies of the Atlantic Grey seal. Huge lumbering mammals all stacked up against each other.

Grey Seals

Back on shore, we rediscovered our land legs and set a course for Nethy Bridge where the trip of a lifetime would really begin!

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